Last blog to finish up the adventure. the last 4 days in Argentina we did a 600+ km day to San Juan which was nice but dim due to the Monday public holiday - no one was around. A few drinks were had and we had our last ride the next day, a short 180km to get to our final destination Mendoza.
We decided to live it up in Mendoza and stayed at the Shereton for 3 nights and relaxed for 3 days, sorted the bikes and put them in storage for the other blokes. We missed the early morning packing, riding and lack of meals, but enjoyed our last few days anyway.
We were keen to get back home and see our families so when our Santiago to Auckland flight was cancelled and we had to enter Chile and stay the night in Santiago - we were all slightly over it. We finally got on another flight 12 hours later and touched down Sunday evening.
Thanks to Lyall and Malcolm for the great opportunity of a lifetime, we all thoroughly enjoyed it, we will see you guys this week after work to sort final logistics.
Also thanks to those that we met and whom helped us along the way; Colonel Javiers from Lima Peru; Jorge from Cochabamba Bolivia and the others whom I can't pronounce or remember by name.
Adios Amigos
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Day 18 Cafayate to Catamarca
Early start this morning to do 350K before lunch - We started the day in Cactus country then another really scenic ride taking us through country similar to European countries, the forests especially remind me of Bavaria and Swiss countryside. Big contrasts;
This forest reminded me of the Mungamuka gorge without the Punga and Kauri...
We made it to Catamarca around lunchtime and managed to find a good Hotel for the night. The boys are having a swim in the pool before dinner. Might throw some dice in the casino tonight. Tommorow another 350K or so.
This forest reminded me of the Mungamuka gorge without the Punga and Kauri...
We made it to Catamarca around lunchtime and managed to find a good Hotel for the night. The boys are having a swim in the pool before dinner. Might throw some dice in the casino tonight. Tommorow another 350K or so.
Day 16 and 17 Salta and Cafayate
Well after yesterdays effort we all get a well deserved sleep in and sample the awesome Argentinian food. Salta is a nice city with authentic markets and plazas. The locals all close up shop at around 2 and don't open up again until after 4, so we do our shopping and eating quite late.
The next day we planned to do a short morning ride (190k) to a small town in the middle of two mountain ranges - Cafayate. This is where we intend to spend the afternoon playing golf on the worlds largest golf course (that's the claim). The ride proves to be a spectacular one through arid gorges and canyons then opening out to vistas similar to Arizona
When we got to Cafayate we started with a great lunch - the Argentinian steaks are just too good, we have to stop eating them, all the weight we lost up north is now being put back on with the great food here.
Because Argentina has a long weekend this weekend we have been having trouble finding accommodation - and its the same in this town, we end up in a single room for 4 and drop our gear off to go to the golf course. We get a golf cart and beer and have a good afternoon of team ambrose, with the old fullas winning the day against the Sams.
We also had a bit of a scare with the local wildlife; I got caught up with a Pink Python, Sam T beat it with the club and I managed to pry myself free.
Tommorow Catamarca.
The next day we planned to do a short morning ride (190k) to a small town in the middle of two mountain ranges - Cafayate. This is where we intend to spend the afternoon playing golf on the worlds largest golf course (that's the claim). The ride proves to be a spectacular one through arid gorges and canyons then opening out to vistas similar to Arizona
Because Argentina has a long weekend this weekend we have been having trouble finding accommodation - and its the same in this town, we end up in a single room for 4 and drop our gear off to go to the golf course. We get a golf cart and beer and have a good afternoon of team ambrose, with the old fullas winning the day against the Sams.
We also had a bit of a scare with the local wildlife; I got caught up with a Pink Python, Sam T beat it with the club and I managed to pry myself free.
Tommorow Catamarca.
Friday, October 8, 2010
Day 15 San Pedro De Atacama to Salta Argentina
We have become relaxed thinking the worst is over so we head off a little late (9am start) and go south through the Atacama desert before climbing back up over the Andes on a south southeast heading. The electronic navigator seems to have the maps a little out in this part of the world as the plot points we take are about 40km away from where the device says they are, so I navigate manually for this leg.
We are enjoying the tar seal as we climb up the mountains on highway 23 when suddenly it runs out and we are gravelling again. we pass 4000 meters again and spend most of the day over this altitude.
We make progress and climb over a pass and straight down to the customs post - Sam T rides the verge of one corner and narrowly escapes going over the side of a mount slope. Other wise the border exit was easy with friendly officials.
We enter another martian planet with a recent volcanic Field sitting in the middle of the Andes. the Argentinian border post was a slow process as it was there siesta time, however we made it through without bother and instead they gave us some directions and advise.
We were running low on fuel so were keen to find a gas station, to our horror we were told that there were not gas stations until San Antonio over 100 Km away. This was not in the brochures, or the guides - we had not filled our cells as we expected thriving border towns. We hit the next village in the middle of a dry valley and started the process of asking for Gasolina. The whole place was dry, no Gasolina. Sam C measured his tank and there was only about an inch and a half left, my tank had quite a bit more. Unfortunately we had another 60km to do to get to the nearest gas station so we set off in single file with me at the back as I had the most fuel. Sam C was the first to run out so we drained my tank twice along the way (about a liter) both Sam C and Sam T then ran out again together about 30Km out from San Antonio. Brian and I made a dash to the town, by this time it was nearing 5pm due to all the time we had wasted looking for gas.
I turned the bike off down the hills and conserved fuel as much as possible, hitting reserve 15Km out. Brian was still following along behind. I got into town and proceeded to look for a gas station only to run out just when a local had given me directions. I left the bike with a local watching it and ran on foot to the station with the fuel cell. I managed to get the bike filled and the cell to take back to the others, in the meantime Brian had not turned up -he had run out of gas just before town.
It turns out we had all got to the town - the Sam's had managed to flag down a local who gave them enough gas to get to the town. After a while we all found each other and filled to the brim.
It was now a desperate charge to Salta 160km away and it was 6pm. We had an hour of daylight left and at least 2 hours of riding to do - as there isn't much in between.
The high plateaus gave way to canyons and large valleys as we descended from 4000 meters. We hit tar seal and then more shingle as it got dark. More roadworks meant that the roads were diverted to the mostly dry river beds. At virtually the last corner of the shingle roads the worst happened, Sam T went straight on at the corner and disappeared into the darkness. Sam C was behind him and witnessed the drama. However he did not disappear into a paddock as first though but down a bank where bike and rider hung precariously over the edge of a raging river. The bike was facing back up the bank and must have been hanging by its foot pegs and weight. By the time I got back to find out what was happening behind me Sam and Brian were holding onto the bike and Sam T was clear of the bike.
A truck driver had stopped and managed to tie a strap to the bike. Locals also helped anchor the bike before the truck driver pulled it up from the murky depths. So number 2 for Sam and he has been really lucky - one more inch, him and the bike would have been in a whole lot more trouble sweeping away down river.
Strangely that last corner led out onto tar seal and civilisation. We managed to find a hotel by about 10:30pm due to no vacancies everywhere.
Well deserved Lay day tomorrow - We are at 1200 meters and the climate is warm.
We are enjoying the tar seal as we climb up the mountains on highway 23 when suddenly it runs out and we are gravelling again. we pass 4000 meters again and spend most of the day over this altitude.
We make progress and climb over a pass and straight down to the customs post - Sam T rides the verge of one corner and narrowly escapes going over the side of a mount slope. Other wise the border exit was easy with friendly officials.
We enter another martian planet with a recent volcanic Field sitting in the middle of the Andes. the Argentinian border post was a slow process as it was there siesta time, however we made it through without bother and instead they gave us some directions and advise.
I turned the bike off down the hills and conserved fuel as much as possible, hitting reserve 15Km out. Brian was still following along behind. I got into town and proceeded to look for a gas station only to run out just when a local had given me directions. I left the bike with a local watching it and ran on foot to the station with the fuel cell. I managed to get the bike filled and the cell to take back to the others, in the meantime Brian had not turned up -he had run out of gas just before town.
It turns out we had all got to the town - the Sam's had managed to flag down a local who gave them enough gas to get to the town. After a while we all found each other and filled to the brim.
It was now a desperate charge to Salta 160km away and it was 6pm. We had an hour of daylight left and at least 2 hours of riding to do - as there isn't much in between.
The high plateaus gave way to canyons and large valleys as we descended from 4000 meters. We hit tar seal and then more shingle as it got dark. More roadworks meant that the roads were diverted to the mostly dry river beds. At virtually the last corner of the shingle roads the worst happened, Sam T went straight on at the corner and disappeared into the darkness. Sam C was behind him and witnessed the drama. However he did not disappear into a paddock as first though but down a bank where bike and rider hung precariously over the edge of a raging river. The bike was facing back up the bank and must have been hanging by its foot pegs and weight. By the time I got back to find out what was happening behind me Sam and Brian were holding onto the bike and Sam T was clear of the bike.
A truck driver had stopped and managed to tie a strap to the bike. Locals also helped anchor the bike before the truck driver pulled it up from the murky depths. So number 2 for Sam and he has been really lucky - one more inch, him and the bike would have been in a whole lot more trouble sweeping away down river.
Strangely that last corner led out onto tar seal and civilisation. We managed to find a hotel by about 10:30pm due to no vacancies everywhere.
Well deserved Lay day tomorrow - We are at 1200 meters and the climate is warm.
Day 14 Desert Hotel to San Pedro De Atacama Chile
Another cloudless day in the desert - we all wake before dawn to and get a sunrise shoot out of the way before a quick breakfast.
The proprietor decides he wants a ride on the BMW - funnily enough all the locals along the way like the Beamer. He shows of to his staff around the hotel then we are off for a full days ride through this unique landscape - I feel like I am on Mars; Volcanoes, desert, canyons and lack of oxygen all make this a surreal experience. I point the DR to the south and gun the noisy beast over the ridge and head for the next reference landscape in the distance. Brian was behind me when I left the Hotel, 5 minutes later and I take a quick calculated glance behind me whilst trying to keep the front straight. Nobody behind me - OK wait for five for them to pop over the distant ridge... Ahh there they are, flash the light at them and we should be good, no they go off to the east. I get the UHF radio out and try that but no one responds, so I frantically flick the high beam up and down - finally one of the guys spots the light and they head towards me. 5 minutes later they arrive and we immediately have a confused discussion about who should have done what. We decide the radios will be used and each person will keep the next in site in a sort of single file arrangement.
Our first photo shoot for the day is the famous "rock tree". As we are now veterans of the desert we decide that we will find our own rock tree on a desert less travelled - so we kit up and put our rock tree on the map - Yes sir we were the founders of this one! This is the famous "Catastrophic Quatro Rock tree"
But just over the ridge is the real one - so we decide we may as well take a few snaps just to say we have been there as well.
Now to find the customs office in the middle of the desert, this is not easy at 5030 meters when heads are light. We pass more lakes of all colours, the sand turns into gravel roads and back again as we go over volcanic passes and back onto desert plains a number of times. Finally we climb to an intersection and turn off to what we believe is the customs office. Sure enough at 5030 meters (16502 feet) we find it tucked behind a mountain next to a geothermal plant (in the middle of nowhere). We have to attach a pre made cardboard number plate as the original has fallen of somewhere in the desert. Brian has a dizzy spell at this altitude and impersonates a drunk stumbling backwards before regaining control of most of his faculties again.
The process to check the bikes out of the country goes well. Now to get to San Pedro and check them into Chile for a day. Speaking of "Chilly", we are surprised at how mild the trip has been so far - we have not had to use our thermals once on the traverse - although we did put our gloves on this morning and this afternoon. Bit of a pain really considering the amount of warm clothing we packed.
We travel through more of the same until early afternoon where we reach the last GPS reference and the navigator runs out of route. Its easy from here as the last lakes and Volcanic mountain come into view - I know the border post and main road are just behind the landmarks.
We cross the border with no issues and make the long decent on a Tar seal road from 4600 meters down to 2600. the Atacama desert and the sands storms are visible below us and the climate changes from chilly to warm.
We have no issues with the Chile border except find that the "pig" now has a flat tyre whilst parked up. I think the BMW is trying to say "leave me behind" " I don't want to be an adventure bike, I just want to look cool and do the odd bit of gravel but mostly just commuting on tar seal". Lyall may want to revise his plans with this one.
We find ourselves a comfortable hotel yet rather expensive - being Chilean. Tomorrow Salta - yes that's right we are dirty, dusty, been gravelling for 3 weeks and we want tar seal, wine and steaks!! So we opt for a big days ride (460k or so).
The locals are freindly in San Pedro!
The proprietor decides he wants a ride on the BMW - funnily enough all the locals along the way like the Beamer. He shows of to his staff around the hotel then we are off for a full days ride through this unique landscape - I feel like I am on Mars; Volcanoes, desert, canyons and lack of oxygen all make this a surreal experience. I point the DR to the south and gun the noisy beast over the ridge and head for the next reference landscape in the distance. Brian was behind me when I left the Hotel, 5 minutes later and I take a quick calculated glance behind me whilst trying to keep the front straight. Nobody behind me - OK wait for five for them to pop over the distant ridge... Ahh there they are, flash the light at them and we should be good, no they go off to the east. I get the UHF radio out and try that but no one responds, so I frantically flick the high beam up and down - finally one of the guys spots the light and they head towards me. 5 minutes later they arrive and we immediately have a confused discussion about who should have done what. We decide the radios will be used and each person will keep the next in site in a sort of single file arrangement.
Our first photo shoot for the day is the famous "rock tree". As we are now veterans of the desert we decide that we will find our own rock tree on a desert less travelled - so we kit up and put our rock tree on the map - Yes sir we were the founders of this one! This is the famous "Catastrophic Quatro Rock tree"
Now to find the customs office in the middle of the desert, this is not easy at 5030 meters when heads are light. We pass more lakes of all colours, the sand turns into gravel roads and back again as we go over volcanic passes and back onto desert plains a number of times. Finally we climb to an intersection and turn off to what we believe is the customs office. Sure enough at 5030 meters (16502 feet) we find it tucked behind a mountain next to a geothermal plant (in the middle of nowhere). We have to attach a pre made cardboard number plate as the original has fallen of somewhere in the desert. Brian has a dizzy spell at this altitude and impersonates a drunk stumbling backwards before regaining control of most of his faculties again.
 |
| Yes that's a real NZ number plate - ask anyone! |
The process to check the bikes out of the country goes well. Now to get to San Pedro and check them into Chile for a day. Speaking of "Chilly", we are surprised at how mild the trip has been so far - we have not had to use our thermals once on the traverse - although we did put our gloves on this morning and this afternoon. Bit of a pain really considering the amount of warm clothing we packed.
We travel through more of the same until early afternoon where we reach the last GPS reference and the navigator runs out of route. Its easy from here as the last lakes and Volcanic mountain come into view - I know the border post and main road are just behind the landmarks.
We have no issues with the Chile border except find that the "pig" now has a flat tyre whilst parked up. I think the BMW is trying to say "leave me behind" " I don't want to be an adventure bike, I just want to look cool and do the odd bit of gravel but mostly just commuting on tar seal". Lyall may want to revise his plans with this one.
The locals are freindly in San Pedro!
Day 13 Uyuni to Desert Hotel
We are up and ready to go except for the fact Brians "pig" has broken in half. Brian and Sam C head off tho the welders while Sam T and I head into the markets to find tubes. Now if you remember we could not source a USB drive anywhere in SA so far - Well here I am in the middle of the desert and a small Libreria (book shop) has a 160GB samsung USB2 drive at a very resonable price - we purchase it immediatley as we have run out of storage for our helmet cam.
At about 10:30am we have tubes and a alloy weld done on the BMW. Before we leave Uyuni we do a quick photo shoot at the famous steam train grave yard. Now to try and work out where we can get Gasolina before we hit the desert proper. At this stage of the journey we have word that there are two possible petrol filling places then after the 70k mark there will be no civilisation for 350k and no gasolina. So we hit the fist stop at San Cristobal only to find the petrol station closed until the end of siesta at 2pm, we could not afford to wait so pushed on in hope of finding gas by the last stop at Villa Allota. This was a ghost town with a sand street and md brick dwellings. It took us a while before one of the locals opened his gates to offer us the desparatley needed gasoline - this would give us the range needed for the crossing of the Cordillera. It mid afternoon and we need to make good time through the desert to make the area of the hotel and see if we can find it. Luckily we have a GPS navigator that gives us an approximate route, the rest we do by map memorisation and signage that pops up along the way.
Unfortunatley as soon as we go offroad the "pig" breaks again. The weld has not lasted and we are stuck with a bike that has a useless footrest and comprimised strength. We decide the best course of action is to wire the bike up as we beleive this part of the frame is more to hold the undercarraige and footrests on than anything else. Brian will have to sit down for the rest of the journey which may be a bit tough in some sections.
Whilst we wire up the pig, one of the tornadoes that we have seen many times in the high plains starts to roar up from the canyon beside us. I get some good footage as 5 or so mini tornadoes form one big one as it sweeps directly towards us. We can't move as Sam C is still wireing the pig and we have gear all around that we quickly collect as the wind starts to pick up. I film the whole thing with the tornado picking up the sand and dust only a few meters away from us. The noise and force is amazing and we all woop as the twister goes around us by meters and heads off to the east. The sand goes up the spout a few hundred feet and disperses into the atmosphere.
We get going again and start making some good ground across volcanic gravel and sand tracks unil we hit the first lake. I breath a sigh of relief as I recognise the terain and environment from the maps I have studied, we are on track and the methods are working. We travel past lunar and martian landscapes, volcanic cones, flamingoes, antelope that look like Alpaca, drag race flat pans, deep desert sands... Its all too much to comprehend in one afternoon. About an hour before dark we find the Desert Hotel like a mirage it appears around a bend off the main track.
I unpack the bike and ascend the nearest ridge which looks small but turns out to be about a kilometer of climbing sand and rock strewn slopes I make it 3/4 of the way up and park the DR650 for a quick sunset photo shoot before heading back to the hotel.
For us the hotel was 5 star considering the day we have had and the one we will have tomorrow. Our one meal a day method means we enjoy the 3 course meal put in front of us and the Cerveza even at over 4000 meters.
Early start in the morning as we have another 200Km run to San Pedro in Chile - mostly Cordillera desert.
 |
| The pig is welded up |
 |
| Formations in a canyon at Villa Alota - Sam holds it up. |
 |
| Number 8 will do it - she'll be right! |
Whilst we wire up the pig, one of the tornadoes that we have seen many times in the high plains starts to roar up from the canyon beside us. I get some good footage as 5 or so mini tornadoes form one big one as it sweeps directly towards us. We can't move as Sam C is still wireing the pig and we have gear all around that we quickly collect as the wind starts to pick up. I film the whole thing with the tornado picking up the sand and dust only a few meters away from us. The noise and force is amazing and we all woop as the twister goes around us by meters and heads off to the east. The sand goes up the spout a few hundred feet and disperses into the atmosphere.
We get going again and start making some good ground across volcanic gravel and sand tracks unil we hit the first lake. I breath a sigh of relief as I recognise the terain and environment from the maps I have studied, we are on track and the methods are working. We travel past lunar and martian landscapes, volcanic cones, flamingoes, antelope that look like Alpaca, drag race flat pans, deep desert sands... Its all too much to comprehend in one afternoon. About an hour before dark we find the Desert Hotel like a mirage it appears around a bend off the main track.
 |
| Mirage turns out to be the Hotel - Cerveza Cerveza.... |
I unpack the bike and ascend the nearest ridge which looks small but turns out to be about a kilometer of climbing sand and rock strewn slopes I make it 3/4 of the way up and park the DR650 for a quick sunset photo shoot before heading back to the hotel.
 |
| The Desert Hotel is middle right |
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| DR at about 4500 meters |
For us the hotel was 5 star considering the day we have had and the one we will have tomorrow. Our one meal a day method means we enjoy the 3 course meal put in front of us and the Cerveza even at over 4000 meters.
Early start in the morning as we have another 200Km run to San Pedro in Chile - mostly Cordillera desert.
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